Royal Botanic Gardens
“An oasis packed with a range of unusual trees, shrubs and flowers, as well as a great hothouse,” says Jamie Byng. These 72 acres of horticultural heaven are home to more than 2,000 species of plants, tropical glasshouses, a bijoux art gallery (Inverleith House), and a. well-appointed tearoom with outside tables offering superb views of the city. If the festival has started to make use of the Botanics (last year saw several glitzy film premieres, plus Dannii Minogue giving her infamous Lady Macbeth), th e gardens remain a haven in the city. “Still the best part of Edinburgh to chill out in,” Kevin Williamson says.
Where: Inverleith Row, 3km from Princes Street (0131 -552 7171). When: Daily 10am-4pm, open to 8pm during May -Aug
Princes Street Gardens
Earlier in the 20th century, this area was the infamous Nor Loch, an open sewer replenished each day by slops thrown down from the slum dwellings of the Old Town above it. Now, however, it’s the green heart of Edinburgh, positioned where the river would normally be, and divided into East and West by the Mound –home to the National Gallery and the Royal Scottish Academy. “Louts with lager, senior citizens on benches, Italian teens with daft wee backpacks–all our life is here,” says Pete Irvine. “It’s the place I go to for a bit of peace and quiet,” says Mark Cousins. “And I love the old -fashioned merry-go-round in the children’s area.”
Where: Parallel to Princes Street. The most popular entrance is by Waverley Bridge, near the Scott Memorial. When: Dawn to dusk.
Arthur’s Seat
This is a place where the legendary British king is said to have rested his backside, this volcano, extinct for 350 million years, towers over the city. The easiest way up should take an averagely fit person no more than 40 minutes. The summit offers great views south towards the Borders and north towards Fife. “It’s an awesome place to watch the sunrise or sunset,” says Jamie Byng. On the way down, thirsty walkers should visit the wonderful Sheep Heid pub in Duddingston village, once frequented by both Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie (though not at the same time). The name comes from a ram’s head given to the publican by King James VI of Scotland–that’s James I of England
Where: West of city centre. Best approach is through Holyrood Park, at the foot of the Royal Mile. When: Any time, elements permitting.
Klownz
The Edinburgh Festival can be an endurance test: small, hot, dark rooms, sleep deprivation, and (frequently) lack of food-there’s not that much difference, it seems, between a festival goer and a hostage. Which is why Kelly Cooper-Barr recommends a day at Klownz in Stockbridge. “This place is pampering heaven. Basically, there is everything you could want–a multitude of beauty treatments, a great hairdressers, San Tropez tan while you relax, right down to the freshly-squeezed orange juice. They will fulfill any request. Spoiling yourself is certainly the order of the day here.”
Where: 1 NW Circus Place, EH3 6ST (0131-226 4565). When: Mon, Tues, Fri 9am-6pm, Wed & Thur 9am-8pm, Sat 9am-4pm. Closed Sundays.
Calton Hill
For those too lazy to climb Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill fills the breach. It’s this place that gave Edinburgh its nickname of the Athens of the North, thanks to the temple that is William Playfair’s National Monument (dedicated to the dead of the Napoleonic Wars), and his City Observatory (based on the Temple of the Winds in Athens). There’s a small visitors’ center– the Edinburgh Experience–but the main attraction is the view. Kevin Williamson says: “Stand tall and proud on top of the hill, looking northwards over Leith, God’s own country, with The Proclaimers jangling away on your Walkman. There is no more moving panorama anywhere in the world. And what’s more, you can be back on Princes Street within five minutes or sitting in one of the bars on Broughton Street.
Where: Entrance on Princes Street by Waterloo Place.
Portobello Beach
Jokingly referred to as Edinburgh’s Riviera, the former artists’ colony is now a bit tatty round the edges. But as the only bit of sea and sand within walking distance of the city, it’s a welcome haven when the sun comes out. “The romantic in you can’t help liking the penny arcades and the miniature fairground,” Mark Cousins says. “It’s got a Brighton Rock quality, a bit of faded, end-of-the-pier charisma.” Leave room for beer, fish and chips, and ice cream. “Luca’s ice cream shop in Musselburgh high street is probably the best on Scotland’s east coast,” says Sarah Smith.
Where: 8km from city centre via London Road. When: Preferably when it’s sunny.
Short-Hole Course in the Meadows
It may look like a raggedy throw -and-putt course, but don’t say that to the regulars: the 36-hole golf course on Bruntsfield Links is more than 100 years old. The mounds have been there for more than three centuries, ever since Edinburgh needed a mass -burial ground for plague
victims. A round of golf is free (scorecards, with rules, are attached to a piece of string on the greenkeeper’s hut), but you will need your own clubs. There are no b unkers, but obstacles include sunbathers, dogs, cyclists and small children. If golf’s not your game there’s a funfair too, and during the festival this is where big circus acts tend to perform. It’s generally safe but, as those who have read Trainspotting will know, the area’s best avoided on your own after dark.
Where: The Meadows. When: Dawn to dusk, when no one is sitting on the holes.
The Commonwealth Pool
This Olympic-sized pool, which was commissioned for the 1970 Commonwealth Games, has kept very busy over the last 30 years, and has undoubtedly seen better days. However, the recent addition of flumes has given it a new lease of life. Central enough for office workers to nip out to in their lunch breaks –or for stressed-out festival-goers to cool their heels. “Standing on the top board, you forget all the stresses and strains of city life. I think it’s a life-saver,” says Sarah Smith .
Where: Dalkeith Road, EH 16 5BB (0131 -667 7211). When: Mon -Fri 9am-9pm, Sat & Sun 10am-4pm. Early bird slots 6arn-9pm Mon-Sat. Opens 10am Wed.
Water Of Leith
The river runs 21 miles from its source in the Pentland Hills to discharge into the Forth of Firth at Leith. A walk along here takes you past the Botanical Gardens, the neo -classical St Bernard’s Well, through the leafy gorge that contains Dean Village, and westwards towards Belford Road–home of the National Gallery of Modern Art and the recently -opened Dean Gallery. 4`Walking there from Leith up the Dean River is a great way to spend an hour or so,” says Jamie Byng. “Make sure you stop off for pastries in Patisserie Florentine,” says Sarah Smith.
Where: The waterway can be entered from various points. Call the Tourist Board on 0131-473 3800 for information.
